As we all get older our models seem to get heavier! Moving these precious engines about safely is an on going discussion point.
Malcolm Phillips writes below of his recent project.
Scissor Jack Engine Stand
The design for this stand was spotted by Peter Dawes in the April 2005 edition of Engineering in Miniature in an article by John Jones of the Guildford MES.
I think it must be the deluxe version judging by the use of ball races where I think plain bearings would work equally well. However we could both see a need
for one, so Pete cut the metal and I agreed to clag it together, (I have a City and Guilds in welding but in the real world that does not mean very much!)
Anyway the construction was straight forward; the bits were hard soldered together without too much heat distortion.
I made some design changes, e.g. guides for the rollers on the top and bottom rails rather than the lugs used to hold the scissors in line and I included an axle
for the scissors hinge in case the original design was not too rigid.
In use it is stable, light and manoeuvrable. The top rails will take smaller 7¼ locos and I made a separate frame to slide in between the top rails to take smaller
gauges. The jack works well, at its lowest point the top rail is eleven inches above the ground, it takes about a minute to wind it up to about thirty inches which
is a comfortable working height, though it will go higher. Extended handles fitting into the top frame for pushing it around are worth considering. I am also
contemplating fitting a rotating mount to the top rails so that it can be used during loco construction, as well as a rolling road. I made the parts for a buffer stop
which I have not got round to fitting, in the meantime plastic cable ties make an essential and effective loco brake. It is ideal for storing locos and transferring
them to the car boot but I would advise making the length of the stand according to the length of the loco you need to transport, the dimensions given in the
article are likely to be too short rather than too long.
The first photo shows the set up for boring the holes in the pull bars.
The second shows the set up for milling the slots in the longitudinal runners.The edge finder is held in the milling chuck with a purpose made collet.
Hot tip--- if I make another I will get it welded together.